Let’s talk beaches, since that’s what most people come to Exuma for, and it is genuinely hard to find a bad one. The real question is which one to pick for the day you’re having, and I’ll share my recommendations as we go. Most of this is about George Town, Great Exuma, Little Exuma and Stocking Island. Tides, construction and seasonal closures change things, so please verify anything time-sensitive before you head out.
Does it matter which beach you pick?
It does, and not because some beaches are bad. Three things change from day to day: the tide, the wind, and how hard the beach is to reach.
Tide. Low tide is when Exuma shows off. The long sandbars, the starfish and sand dollars at Coco Plum and the ankle-deep flats at Exuma Point all depend on it. Check a tide chart, put the tidal beach at low water, and keep an eye on the water if you wander out on the flats. It is embarrassingly easy to wade out on a falling tide and have to swim back.
Wind. The Atlantic side, including Three Sisters, gets windier and rougher. Protected coves stay calm. As a rule of thumb, the north side of the island is the swimming side and the south side is the scenery side. If you have small children, I’d let the wind direction pick the beach.
Access. Some beaches are at the bottom of a steep path, a long walk through soft sand or a boat ride away. If anyone in your group has trouble with stairs or uneven ground, use this to narrow the list before you look at a single photo.
Little Exuma: Tropic of Cancer, Pretty Molly and Forbes Hill
If I could only do one day of beaches, this would be it. You cross a narrow bridge from Great Exuma and Little Exuma starts right there, so a rental at Tropic of Cancer Beach is already on Little Exuma. Plan on a day trip from George Town, roughly 30 to 60 minutes each way depending on where you’re staying.
Tropic of Cancer Beach is a protected cove with a long, walkable beach, clear water and a beach bar when you want a cold drink. It is a beach for walking and floating, so don’t go expecting wildlife.
Pretty Molly is the one I’d tell you not to skip. It gets less talk than its neighbors, and people who have been to all of them often rank it first. Give it real time instead of treating it as a stop on the way.
Forbes Hill is stunning but divisive, thanks to the rocks in the water. It is a good pick for quiet and a poor one for small children or anyone who insists on bare feet.
For the day itself, leave mid-morning, eat first and spend a few hours at each. And a heads-up that is worth planning around: most places on Little Exuma close on Sundays and Mondays. Island time, after all.
Is Hoopers Bay worth it?
Yes, with a few caveats. It is shallow and calm and sits between the airport and George Town. The catch is the way in. The only public access is a steep wooden path that gets slippery, so wear water shoes, and I’d skip it if anyone has mobility trouble. Turtles used to be easy to find here but are rare now. You are likelier to see them near the Hideaways beach, the Peace & Plenty dock and February Point Marina.
What about sharks? They are plentiful in Exuma, though mostly out in the deeper water and on the flats, and lemon sharks do cruise the shallow flats around George Town. Most people swim at Hoopers Bay without a problem. I’d just stay out of the water at dusk and if I had an open cut, which is sensible anywhere.
Jolly Hall is the practical alternative. It is close by, easier to get into and the one I’d head for when the wind is up.
What’s the best beach for little kids?
Coco Plum, no contest. The water is calm and shallow, the sandbars are huge, and at low tide the starfish and sand dollars come out. It is on the northeast side of Great Exuma. Go at low tide, and just before sunset if you can manage it, when the light is lovely.
Exuma Point is the other family favorite, with hundreds of yards of ankle-deep water, starfish and stingrays. If your kids want to feed a stingray, add Stocking Island.
Do you need a boat for Stocking Island?
Pretty much, yes. Stocking Island sits across the harbor from George Town with no road or bridge, so you go by water taxi or rented boat. Once you’re there, moving around is the hard part, because most beaches are boat access only and walking between them is limited. You can walk from Starfish Beach to St. Francis, but not from either to Chat N Chill, though you can wade along the shore from Chat N Chill to Peace & Plenty and Baymahni.
The workable plans are to take the water taxi to one spot and set a pickup time at another, or to rent a boat and hop around. The stingrays at Chat N Chill are the draw for families. The starfish at Starfish Beach come and go, so check recent reports before you count on them.
Sandbars and the Lazy River
Coco Plum and Exuma Point are best at low tide, as above. Haulover Bay near Rolleville also has sandbars at low tide, and the channel is shallow enough to walk across. Man O War sandbar gets the most praise of any single spot, and I’d go in the morning. The Lazy River starts near the bridge on the way to Tropic of Cancer and is a tidal channel, best on an incoming or high tide. Please confirm locally whether you can reach it from land or need a boat before you plan a day around it.
What should you bring?
Water shoes for Hoopers Bay and rocky entries, a tide chart, and bug protection for dusk. The paths down to some beaches are mosquito territory, and Starfish Beach has a reputation for pests after sundown. If you don’t like sitting in sand, Coconut Club, the Peace & Plenty beach club, Exuma Palms and Shoreline offer lounge chairs, and plenty of people pack two small folding chairs in their luggage. And for Little Exuma, rent a car. It is the right way to see those beaches and a lot cheaper than taxis.
My verdict on Exuma’s beaches
If you only have time for one thing, spend a day on Little Exuma. If you have kids under eight, add Coco Plum at low tide. If you have five days or more, book one boat day. And if the wind is up or the tide is wrong, change the beach, not the plan. Don’t overthink it: there really isn’t a bad one.
If you’re still deciding where to stay, take a look at the rest of our Exuma Travel Guide and our Great Exuma vacation rentals.